Hawkfish on coral


Phoenix Expeditions

2010 date:
19th May - 7th June 2010

2011 date:
1st - 20th June 2011

Departure from Samoa: The S/V Southern Cross will be tied up at the main yacht marina (in Apia harbour) on the day of departure (ie Wednesday), please meet there at 10am and passengers will be assigned their bunks

For those passengers arriving on the direct Air NZ flight from Los Angeles, you will only have a few hours in Samoa before we depart on our voyage in the afternoon. All food will be supplied during the voyage

Swain's Island: This small American Samoan island has been owned by one family for over one hundred years - at the island there will be a small caretaker community in residence. We spend a few hours ashore and check out their super-saline lagoon and the old copra plantation buildings. There will be time for some snorkeling and scuba diving

Some of the Swain's islanders may be hitching a ride with us from Apia, and/or sending along some stores of food and equipment, as this small island is rarely visited

Nukunono Atoll: We plan to arrive at the capital of the Tokelau Islands in time to have our passports stamped, and then fit in a guided tour of the big lagoon.

Staying ashore at the Nukunono Hotel for the night is also a recommended option, especially if you like some local flavour in your travels - please pay your local hosts directly in cash - about $40US per person per night is the norm at this small hotel

This is a very large atoll, so there is plenty of opportunity for exploring uninhabited motu and relaxing on golden sandy beaches - and for those keen on getting below the waves, we will aim for some scuba dives along the dropoff on the western shore

Rawaki & Enderbury Islands: These are seabird islands never to be forgotten, we are talking among the best in the world. Getting ashore is the difficult bit, so we will need to find what the sea conditions are like on the day. Both islands have fantastic scuba diving, with very healthy populations of large predatory fish (sharks, snapper, humphead wrasse etc)

Both islands have a history of guano mining, with ruins scattered among the seabird colonies. Enderbury has also had more recent visits by US military technical staff during the 1970s - they left behind some large towers and empty coke bottles - a fun place to explore, but you will need to keep out of the mid-day sun - these are real desert islands - always carry some water and take a hand held radio.

Kanton Island: This is the only inhabited island in the Phoenix Group - with a small community of about 50 people (mainly Kiribati Government staff and their families). They will be happy to see us, as they very rarely get visitors

Planes using Kanton's massive 2300m long sealed runway are even rarer (averaging about one per year in the last decade). The era of the transpacific flights stopping at Kanton for fuel is long gone.

If you are a Pacific history enthusiast, bring your camera, it is all here in front of your eyes - even a large satellite dish sits rusting away in the tropical sun - not to mention the World War 2 bunkers scattered around the island.

The lagoon, the big pass and the ocean side drop offs give heaps of diving options. The Phoenix Group was declared the largest Marine Reserve in the world recently - and it is easy to see why, when you get below the waves - large and colourful fish and live coral are abundant

Orona Island: We will be camping ashore at an abandoned Kiribati village along the western side of the atoll - this small settlement (complete with church and meeting house) was built new in 2002 and abandoned three years later due to the difficulty of living in such a remote place. Sleeping under the stars on a sandy beach is also highly recommended - as is plenty of snorkeling in the large blue lagoon and scuba diving along the outer reef

Luckily for Pacific voyagers like us, both Orona,and Gardner, are well vegetated with coconut trees, hence, plenty of excellent shade and lots to eat and drink. If you are looking for an atoll to be shipwrecked on - choose one of these

Gardner Island: Possibly the final resting place of Amelia Earhart, but we can not guarantee you we will find her crashed Lockheed plane.

We can find you plenty of diving with the manta rays and sharks. We definitely recommend a trip around the lagoon in our inflatable boat, bring your snorkeling gear for sure.

Be careful, this is the sort of magical atoll that you will fall in love with - probably at first sight - a green speck of paradise in the mighty blue Pacific

Atafu Island: If time allows, we may visit Atafu (Tokelau Islands) for a day or two on our way back to Apia. The village of 500 people is beautifully laid out in a classic Polynesian style. This is the smallest of the Tokelau Islands, but like the others it has a beautiful big lagoon

Arrival in Apia: We will arrive at the Apia Marina on Monday morning - this will give us enough time to process passports etc, so that passengers can catch the direct flight back to Los Angeles on Monday evening

You will be free to visit Samoa on Monday afternoon - If a dose of civilization is on your wish list after three weeks at sea, then a visit to Aggie Grey's Hotel should be first on your list of things to do. If you want some local colour, then we recommend the Apia public market - it is large, cheap, and a lot of fun

Diving: All of the islands on this voyage have excellent snorkeling and diving. We provide all equipment without additional charge (a licence is required for scuba diving)

Help on board: We much appreciate passengers who help us with the running of our vessel and also while onshore setting up camp etc - this type of team work adds greatly to everyone's experience

Price: US$4,900



For a National Geographic story on diving in the Phoenix Group
(written by Dr Greg Stone of Conservation International)
as well as a short history of this island group
and a number of other excellent links
click here

For a map of the Tokelau Islands click here


Local children at Kanton Wharf
Phoenix Group


Abandoned village
Orona Atoll - Phoenix Group


Abandoned Satellite station
Kanton Island - Phoenix Group


Guano miners house
Phoenix Group


Abandoned light house
Enderbury Island


Sunset at Apia Marina
Samoa

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